Tuesday, August 30, 2011
This title needs a story otherwise one might get the wrong impression about just what or whom she refers to.
To begin I will give you some background on the system I had come up with based on warre methodology. In the spring I would under super (place an empty box under the colony) so the broodnest could expand onto new comb, this facilitates yearly comb renewal without breaking or disturbing the broodnest structure. Through the flowing seasons I would "ideally" remove some comb from a couple boxes above the broodnest this will let the bees harvest and store more honey without the need to fill a whole box (checker-boarding). I would keep the hives at four boxes tall with progressive harvests.
The images you see on the left are my box lifter and an escape board based on a design I found online.
Today I was planning on harvesting the top box from hive number five, so I placed the escape board under it and above the rest of the hive, this lets the bees travel downwards while preventing them from traversing upwards, then the idea was I could just remove the now bee devoid empty box of honey. I waited an hour and checked but the bees were still there, so I concluded that my escape had not worked, Ok I said time for plan B.
Plan B involved removing individual comb and brushing all the bees off one at a time, this went surprisingly well. As I removed the first comb (drawn out perfectly straight) I was impressed with its beauty, It would have made the most gorgeous honey comb. The second comb was just as impressive, the third at first glance was more of the same until I noticed some brood! So I checked a bit further and sure enough the queen was laying a nice pattern of brood in all this wonderfully new wax. This is why the escape board hadn't been working the bees did not want to "escape" they wanted to be in this box.
I was very excited about this discovery even though it meant I have to wait a couple more days to harvest. You see the top box on number five had previously been under the box that all this hives brood was in, this in turn means when I moved this box to the top thinking the queen had not moved down into it I was unknowingly moving the queen as well. This proves she will move down onto new wax just like warre says, only I find she moves much to slowly to always under super. I think under supering should be done once in the spring for broodnest expansion then on top for honey harvest.
To begin I will give you some background on the system I had come up with based on warre methodology. In the spring I would under super (place an empty box under the colony) so the broodnest could expand onto new comb, this facilitates yearly comb renewal without breaking or disturbing the broodnest structure. Through the flowing seasons I would "ideally" remove some comb from a couple boxes above the broodnest this will let the bees harvest and store more honey without the need to fill a whole box (checker-boarding). I would keep the hives at four boxes tall with progressive harvests.
The images you see on the left are my box lifter and an escape board based on a design I found online.
Today I was planning on harvesting the top box from hive number five, so I placed the escape board under it and above the rest of the hive, this lets the bees travel downwards while preventing them from traversing upwards, then the idea was I could just remove the now bee devoid empty box of honey. I waited an hour and checked but the bees were still there, so I concluded that my escape had not worked, Ok I said time for plan B.
Plan B involved removing individual comb and brushing all the bees off one at a time, this went surprisingly well. As I removed the first comb (drawn out perfectly straight) I was impressed with its beauty, It would have made the most gorgeous honey comb. The second comb was just as impressive, the third at first glance was more of the same until I noticed some brood! So I checked a bit further and sure enough the queen was laying a nice pattern of brood in all this wonderfully new wax. This is why the escape board hadn't been working the bees did not want to "escape" they wanted to be in this box.
I was very excited about this discovery even though it meant I have to wait a couple more days to harvest. You see the top box on number five had previously been under the box that all this hives brood was in, this in turn means when I moved this box to the top thinking the queen had not moved down into it I was unknowingly moving the queen as well. This proves she will move down onto new wax just like warre says, only I find she moves much to slowly to always under super. I think under supering should be done once in the spring for broodnest expansion then on top for honey harvest.
Friday, August 26, 2011
Almost September, fortunately we are getting some rain now, this should help our goldenrod flow. I have been busy getting my hives ready for the winter, all three "italian" hives are being fed plus #1 (ronna's hive).
#1 is now showing no signs of chalk brood this is great news, they also have a stellar brood pattern another possible indicator that they are feral (feral mated queens often have a much better laying pattern then "bred" queens).
#2 (one if the italian hives) is not doing well, they obviously have queen problems showing signs of apathy from the queen, low brood count. I noticed a queen cell when I inspected on the 24th it was ready to emerge with a papery cap, she should have enough time to get mated if we continue to have nice weather with lots of drones flying, I don't know how many brood cycles she can lay before winter though, time will tell.
One reason I feed light hives at this time of year even with a flow on is because I don't want to break the bees natural cycle, most breeds of bees will reduce their numbers in preparation for oncoming winter, I do not want the bees thinking their is a flow that then suddenly stops, most often flows wont drop off suddenly like this.
I found out why I was getting so much bearding with my warre hives, I was running warm way (comb parallel to entrance), when I turned the hives to run cold way (comb perpendicular to entrance) the bearding virtually vanished, this means they can move air much better, I think this would also increase honey harvest, at least I know for next year. I am putting two 1/2" holes in each box on the entrance side for winter entrances and more air movement during the summer. I can plug all the holes except the ones in the top box, then when a new box becomes the "top box" I just unplug those holes. I wanted an upper entrance for the winter because bottom entrances often get clogged with dead bees during this season, I wanted the holes small enough for the bees to close if they wanted but big enough for use as an entrance, a minimum size for bees is about 1/4" but then they can only pass either in or out 1/2" should let inwards traffic pass outbound traffic and should be small enough for them to close with propolis if they so desire.
I also finished and tested my bee lift, works very well, no more lifting! Pictures coming soon.
#1 is now showing no signs of chalk brood this is great news, they also have a stellar brood pattern another possible indicator that they are feral (feral mated queens often have a much better laying pattern then "bred" queens).
#2 (one if the italian hives) is not doing well, they obviously have queen problems showing signs of apathy from the queen, low brood count. I noticed a queen cell when I inspected on the 24th it was ready to emerge with a papery cap, she should have enough time to get mated if we continue to have nice weather with lots of drones flying, I don't know how many brood cycles she can lay before winter though, time will tell.
One reason I feed light hives at this time of year even with a flow on is because I don't want to break the bees natural cycle, most breeds of bees will reduce their numbers in preparation for oncoming winter, I do not want the bees thinking their is a flow that then suddenly stops, most often flows wont drop off suddenly like this.
I found out why I was getting so much bearding with my warre hives, I was running warm way (comb parallel to entrance), when I turned the hives to run cold way (comb perpendicular to entrance) the bearding virtually vanished, this means they can move air much better, I think this would also increase honey harvest, at least I know for next year. I am putting two 1/2" holes in each box on the entrance side for winter entrances and more air movement during the summer. I can plug all the holes except the ones in the top box, then when a new box becomes the "top box" I just unplug those holes. I wanted an upper entrance for the winter because bottom entrances often get clogged with dead bees during this season, I wanted the holes small enough for the bees to close if they wanted but big enough for use as an entrance, a minimum size for bees is about 1/4" but then they can only pass either in or out 1/2" should let inwards traffic pass outbound traffic and should be small enough for them to close with propolis if they so desire.
I also finished and tested my bee lift, works very well, no more lifting! Pictures coming soon.
Monday, August 15, 2011
I have been looking for a chance to photograph a bee actually producing wax, on the left you can see the one bee that is "belly up" giving you a chance to see two wax flakes being produced under scales on its abdomen. Wax makers probably hang out near the honey stores because I often see them at this kind of feeder. I built some feeders for placement on top of a hive stack.
A short box is divided in half by two boards spaced 1/4" apart the two halves are sealed with wax, this allows the bees to crawl up between those two boards and down into the two reservoirs, I placed a screen set off of where I want the bees to travel by 1/4" this prevents nearly all bee drowning problems since they can't be anywhere without touching a walking surface.
A short box is divided in half by two boards spaced 1/4" apart the two halves are sealed with wax, this allows the bees to crawl up between those two boards and down into the two reservoirs, I placed a screen set off of where I want the bees to travel by 1/4" this prevents nearly all bee drowning problems since they can't be anywhere without touching a walking surface.
Thursday, August 11, 2011
August and the weather so far seems too be cooling off, and in-line with seasonal. This season our nights have been very cool with blistering hot days.
The above picture is one of my "Italian hives", sometimes with cool night weather the bees will stay put until the sun comes out then they go crazy with hundreds all flying around at once, I see this a lot if we had rain the day before.
So far all seven hives are doing well, I have yet to check on the smaller ones, those I will feed if their numbers or stores are low to get them ready for the coming winter. Hive number one is still displaying signs of chalk brood, the season is too late for raising a new queen though so I will try to get them though the winter. If number one survives I have a few options, one would be pinch the queen and let them raise another, or I could buy a new queen, I could also take a queen from one of my stronger hives and let that hive raise a new queen for themselves. I do not like propagating poor genetics so "number one" making their own queen is out.
So far our forage has been good with the exception of a late spring and an offset clover flow, that offset set back the clover since it didn't have time to flower before most farmers took their first cutting, so we are getting some clover flow now. I should be able to get some harvest this year, this is exiting since it would be my first real harvest since I started beekeeping.
The above picture is one of my "Italian hives", sometimes with cool night weather the bees will stay put until the sun comes out then they go crazy with hundreds all flying around at once, I see this a lot if we had rain the day before.
So far all seven hives are doing well, I have yet to check on the smaller ones, those I will feed if their numbers or stores are low to get them ready for the coming winter. Hive number one is still displaying signs of chalk brood, the season is too late for raising a new queen though so I will try to get them though the winter. If number one survives I have a few options, one would be pinch the queen and let them raise another, or I could buy a new queen, I could also take a queen from one of my stronger hives and let that hive raise a new queen for themselves. I do not like propagating poor genetics so "number one" making their own queen is out.
So far our forage has been good with the exception of a late spring and an offset clover flow, that offset set back the clover since it didn't have time to flower before most farmers took their first cutting, so we are getting some clover flow now. I should be able to get some harvest this year, this is exiting since it would be my first real harvest since I started beekeeping.
Monday, August 1, 2011
I finally inspected number 5 yesterday, I wanted to see if they had moved their brood nest downwards yet. The short answer for this is they haven't moved at all. I put them in the larger red box you can see in the above picture when I moved them out of their TBH. This taller box has about half its hight taken up with broodnest with the rest being honey stores. This tells me two things, under supering is possibly limited to an early season event, assuming they move downwards when they expand in the spring. The second thing is the relative size they need for their broodnest, would be between 200 and 250 high in a 300 x 300 mm box, so my new box sizes will fill this need fairly well.
I am sure I can get at least one full box from this hive this year since we still have about one and a half month more of viable forage before our winter begins to catch up with us.
I also got the chance yesterday to test out my hive lift system, I wont post about it because I feel it was a failure, on to the next design! This time much simpler..
I am sure I can get at least one full box from this hive this year since we still have about one and a half month more of viable forage before our winter begins to catch up with us.
I also got the chance yesterday to test out my hive lift system, I wont post about it because I feel it was a failure, on to the next design! This time much simpler..
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